"They ski like they drive." This is what my guidebook warned of when I looked at its section on skiing in Lebanon. Despite this warning, I went skiing at Faraya Mountain on Tuesday. Unfortunately conditions weren't great, and only the bunny slopes were open. However, it was still worth the experience. My book did not lie. The Lebanese are crazy skiers. I think a lot of it is that skiing is much more of a social activity than a sport and people don't take the time to learn. A fair amount of the people crowding around the chairlift were in jeans, uggs, and fancy puffy coats with fur hoods. They posed for a few pictures, watched one of their friends get onto the lift, and then took more pictures. I'd say there were more people sledding than skiing. There isn't much to be said for those skiing. They cut you off and ski straight down the mountain; there were more wipeouts than a combined total of ones I've seen in the States. What's more, the lift lines were a nightmare. Just like they are on the road, the Lebanese couldn't care less about cutting you in line. There was no order whatsoever and the lift attendants just stood idly by smoking cigarettes. You'd get these little kids who would push their way to the front of the line, and then stand there blocking the entrance to the lift as they waited for their parents to join them. It was mayhem. That being said, I still had a really great time. Also, skiing in Lebanon (ski rental, clothing rental, helmet, lift ticket) is still less than a lift ticket in Vermont.
I started classes yesterday. It seems like everybody at AUB studies science or economics. There are hardly any Lebanese or Arab students in my political science classes. Both my political science classes, Politics & Government in the Middle East and Palestinian & Israeli Politics seem interesting. The professors definitely are not of the same caliber as the ones at Hamilton, but that is just my first impression. My Arabic classes are fantastic. The Lebanese professor is top-notch and although it's going to be a lot of work I think I am going to learn a ton.
I really just can't get over the cats at AUB. There are cat feeding stations set up around campus and the cats have a social life unto themselves. There are literally hundreds running around. They beg students for food and come next to you whenever you sit down. Just to give a little sense of the popularity of cats, the AUB website has a photo gallery under their "About Us" section, and there is a cat album.
Back tracking a bit, but on Monday I went to the memorial service for Rafic Hariri. Everything was in Arabic, so I didn't understand much, but what I gathered was that it was a very patriotic service where numerous politicians belonging to the March 14 group (supporters of Saad Hariri, the most recent, former prime minister) reaffirmed the autonomy of Lebanon against foreign countries like Syria and Israel and threw their full weight behind the Special Tribunal to Lebanon (investigating the assassination of Rafic Hariri, likely to indict members of Hezbollah). It was obviously a very emotional day for all political parties. I didn't get to see Saad Hariri speak because the room where I was watching a televised version of the speeches had a little disturbance. During one man's speech, many people in the live audience and in my room began booing. I honestly have no idea what he said, but after a bit people started shouting at each other and eventually someone threw a chair so I was out of there. My first impression of the events were highly critical. Why couldn't the Lebanese just sit tight and listen to a speech without fighting? My friends echoed those sentiments. But as my mother pointed out, if a political party in America were to arrange for the assassination of Obama (and here I hope that my blog doesn't get flagged by the FBI for using "assassination" and "Obama" in the same sentence), people would be pretty ticked off and apt to fight. So politics in Lebanon may be a bit more emotionally charged than what we're used to in the States, but it's not because of different values or a tendency for belligerence.
I've still mostly been spending my time with the international students who are doing study abroad at AUB for one semester like myself. There are a few kids from Arab countries who go to school in the States. One of the things I find most interesting is talking to kids who are Palestinian. When you ask them where they're from, they say Palestine, no hesitation. Generally I ask them where in Palestine, thinking I may know the place. After a bit of prying, it usually turns out that they've never been to Palestine, or they were born in a neighboring Arab country and are the grandchildren of '48 refugees. I guess I didn't expect the connection to Palestine to be so strong in younger students who grew up in America. Talking to these kids made me see that no matter how far negotiations go, there will never be a resolution to the Palestinian issue if the refugee issue isn't dealt with first. Something's got to be done, and I don't envy the person who has to decide who, if anyone, can go back to Palestine.
Sorry there are no pictures this time, my camera battery died when we were skiing. I may investigate a farmer's market in downtown Beirut on Saturday, so expect pictures from that!
I started classes yesterday. It seems like everybody at AUB studies science or economics. There are hardly any Lebanese or Arab students in my political science classes. Both my political science classes, Politics & Government in the Middle East and Palestinian & Israeli Politics seem interesting. The professors definitely are not of the same caliber as the ones at Hamilton, but that is just my first impression. My Arabic classes are fantastic. The Lebanese professor is top-notch and although it's going to be a lot of work I think I am going to learn a ton.
I really just can't get over the cats at AUB. There are cat feeding stations set up around campus and the cats have a social life unto themselves. There are literally hundreds running around. They beg students for food and come next to you whenever you sit down. Just to give a little sense of the popularity of cats, the AUB website has a photo gallery under their "About Us" section, and there is a cat album.
Back tracking a bit, but on Monday I went to the memorial service for Rafic Hariri. Everything was in Arabic, so I didn't understand much, but what I gathered was that it was a very patriotic service where numerous politicians belonging to the March 14 group (supporters of Saad Hariri, the most recent, former prime minister) reaffirmed the autonomy of Lebanon against foreign countries like Syria and Israel and threw their full weight behind the Special Tribunal to Lebanon (investigating the assassination of Rafic Hariri, likely to indict members of Hezbollah). It was obviously a very emotional day for all political parties. I didn't get to see Saad Hariri speak because the room where I was watching a televised version of the speeches had a little disturbance. During one man's speech, many people in the live audience and in my room began booing. I honestly have no idea what he said, but after a bit people started shouting at each other and eventually someone threw a chair so I was out of there. My first impression of the events were highly critical. Why couldn't the Lebanese just sit tight and listen to a speech without fighting? My friends echoed those sentiments. But as my mother pointed out, if a political party in America were to arrange for the assassination of Obama (and here I hope that my blog doesn't get flagged by the FBI for using "assassination" and "Obama" in the same sentence), people would be pretty ticked off and apt to fight. So politics in Lebanon may be a bit more emotionally charged than what we're used to in the States, but it's not because of different values or a tendency for belligerence.
I've still mostly been spending my time with the international students who are doing study abroad at AUB for one semester like myself. There are a few kids from Arab countries who go to school in the States. One of the things I find most interesting is talking to kids who are Palestinian. When you ask them where they're from, they say Palestine, no hesitation. Generally I ask them where in Palestine, thinking I may know the place. After a bit of prying, it usually turns out that they've never been to Palestine, or they were born in a neighboring Arab country and are the grandchildren of '48 refugees. I guess I didn't expect the connection to Palestine to be so strong in younger students who grew up in America. Talking to these kids made me see that no matter how far negotiations go, there will never be a resolution to the Palestinian issue if the refugee issue isn't dealt with first. Something's got to be done, and I don't envy the person who has to decide who, if anyone, can go back to Palestine.
Sorry there are no pictures this time, my camera battery died when we were skiing. I may investigate a farmer's market in downtown Beirut on Saturday, so expect pictures from that!
Enjoying your posts and photos, Rachel -- always fascinating to have a primary source. The cat angle... who knew?!
ReplyDeleteTake good care and keep in touch.
Love,
Laura